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Posted at 05:50 AM in US Road Trip | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack (0)
MONDAY 16 MARCH
- Taxi to airport at 12:20 pm
- Terminal 5 – first time.
- Check-in immediate at Fast Bag Drop – maybe 2 minutes to process.
- Security quite thorough – about 7 minutes, including queue.
- Sit in shopping mall on air-side, join WiFi hotspot network which (it says) operates in McDonalds and Starbucks. Should be good for US
- Board BA 299 painlessly. Plenty of luggage storage space. I have attaché case and very small laptop bag.
- Service, seat, food – all lovely.
- Staff all wonderful – friendly and dignified.
- Make notes for my speaking events.
- Nap.
- Arrive Chicago
- Immigration queue well-managed and very short.
-
- Luggage comes quickly. Waved through by Customs.
- Hertz shuttle to their compound. She confirms that they are giving me a hybrid car, Toyota Prius, as requested. Please God, let it be a nice colour.
- It’s metallic black – perfect.
- This is a Star Fleet shuttle craft. Spend 30 minutes trying to figure out how it starts. It’s incredible.
- Drive to Chicago O’Hare Garden Hotel, using the MapQuest directions I had printed.
- They have my boxes from Amazon.com – all the equipment for this adventure:
US cell phone
Digital camera
Digital voice recorder (to make book notes in car)
Car charger for phone
New high tech rechargeable batteries for camera (I brought own US
Ab roller – for hotel room exercise. (Will return with six-pack abs)
Audio book – ‘Eat, Pray, Love’
Five copies of my book to give away
- Shirts are really creased – ugh, will I have to iron them?
- Spend time working out how all this new stuff works.
- Go to bed at 1 am
TUESDAY 17 MARCH
- Did I sleep? Not sure.
- Arise at 5:30 am
- Complimentary hotel continental breakfast will be served in lobby. I’m looking forward to croissants and fresh rolls.
- I can see why it’s free. It’s little refined sugar doughnuts and white bread.
- Walk two blocks to archetypal American diner.
- Have omelette, toast and giant hash brown, decaff coffee, orange juice.
- I will be eating a lot of eggs in diners on my road trip. It’s okay, the British Egg Council just announced that they’ve discovered that eggs don’t really raise your cholesterol much – and they should know.
- Install satnav in car.
- Mill around hotel room.
- Go for drive to my first venue, to check it out.
- Return to hotel.
- Relax in armchair.
- Sleep.
- Feel a wave of exhaustion.
- Hurriedly shower and dress in smart clothes.
- Drive to venue.
- Meet Rev Alan Taylor and his delightful family. They take me to dinner.
- There’s a problem – due to an illness, there was no publicity. Due to a death, everyone’s gone to a wake.
- The Rev promises me that if I return to
- Freelance local cameraman arrives and films session (see below re documentary).
- Run through a practice session with the Rev and a limited audience, and discuss content afterwards. This is very helpful – as this tour is the first time that I’m addressing an American audience. How different will it be from British and Australian audiences?
- Sleep.
WEDNESDAY 18 MARCH
- Awake early, skip hotel breakfast, go straight to Mac’s Diner.
- In hotel room, rationalise my luggage, so that I need carry only one bag into a hotel, when stay just one night.
- In hotel, internet can only be reached through two cables in lobby.
- Try to add credit to my T-mobile US cell phone, on-line. It accepts that I live in country UK
- Phone T-mobile on my grey Motorola Razr US cell phone to discuss, reach call centre (possibly in Mexico
- My black Motorola Razr UK
- India
- I cancel both transactions, and hang up both phones. I need to think about this. T-Mobile want to charge me $1-60 per minute for INCOMING calls from the UK
- Slightly cross, pack, shower and depart for Kalamazoo
- I don’t like to make sweeping generalizations, but Chicago
- Glad to leave the city and hit the highway. My road trip has begun.
- Stop at a Starbucks and, using that hotspot membership I bought in Heathrow, successfully have Skype video call with film maker who wants to make documentary about my road trip. He commissioned the Chicago
- Arrive in Kalamazoo
- Nice to relax – no hurry.
- Amy says: “Shouldn’t you be getting ready?”
- “S--t!” I forgot the time change.
- Hurriedly shower and dress in smart clothes.
- Rev Jill McAllister is wonderful and so welcoming.
- Turnout is excellent and American audience all laugh at appropriate points. (Thank God!)
- Dinner in restaurant – nachos.
- Fall asleep instantly.
THURSDAY 19 MARCH
- Drive to Bloomington, Indiana
- Check-in to Travelodge. Nice view of someone’s front porch a few yards from my window. Keep curtains closed.
- Shower and change.
- Rev Bill Breedon is so welcoming.
- Nice turnout, wonderful discussion afterwards, including about Afghanistan
- Three of them take me to a bar to eat.
- Return to Travelodge – fall asleep instantly.
FRIDAY 20 MARCH
- ‘Deluxe’ free breakfast at Travelodge is somewhat disappointing.
- Only a short drive today – 66 miles to
- Spend two hours in Starbucks en-route, doing e-mail and using the Internet.
- Not using hotel in Indianapolis
- Go to Chinese restaurant. Forget about American portion sizes and over-order. Place in takeaway box.
- Go to Walgreens (for bad throat) and Target for a few toiletries.
- Arrive at All Souls Unitarian Church
- My talk is in the main hall. I am too intimidated to stand at the pulpit, so stand at floor level.
- Excellent turnout. Discussion over coffee and cookies in dining hall. Very nice people.
- Leave at 9 pm
- Three hour drive to Columbus, Ohio
- Travelodge car park is full of huge, intimidating pick-up trucks. Park hybrid car in-between two of them.
- Check-in to Travelodge and go to room.
- My throat hurts and I feel run down.
- Lift toilet seat. Ugh – someone has left a deposit.
- Inspect room – looks like the room’s been cleaned, but cleaner forgot to clean toilet. It is 1 am
- Eat remains of pad thai and fried fish and crawl into bed.
SATURDAY 21 MARCH
- Throat hurts.
- Breakfast is marginally better, but no decaff coffee.
- Try to make decaff in room. Ugh – the coffee has not been emptied from last use.
- It doesn’t work properly anyway.
- Update blog.
- I need to get out of here.
- Drive to Cleveland – Red Roof Inn.
- Eat a brief meal in Red Lobster.
- Sleep, with terrible throat.
SUNDAY 22 MARCH
- Awake with bad throat and aching body.
- Go to Walgreens pharmacy and buy all sorts of stuff.
- Vente latte from Starbucks.
- Go to UU Church of Rocky River.
- My event is at 9:15 am, before the Sunday service at 10:30.
- The venue is packed – they are overflowing out the doors.
- I recover enough to deliver my talk – the audience is wonderful.
- Return to hotel, pack, and set-off for Bethlehem, PA.
- My next event is on Monday evening, so it feels like I have two days off.
- Get as far as Milesburg PA (more than half way), see a sign for Ramada Inn and decide to call it a day.
- The Ramada Inn is a huge two storey hotel, but the car park has about three cars in it.
- Check-in.
- After Travelodge, this place has an air of dignity and class, but eerily quiet – it’s deserted. The corridor is the longest I’ve ever seen in a hotel.
- The room is comfortable and elegant.
- I want a proper meal – GPS takes me to Twin Kisses restaurant. It’s a modest structure, with many pick-up trucks outside. Inside, many heads in baseball caps turn to look at Middle Eastern man in hybrid car with Illinois plates, sitting in car park.
- I don’t see any credit card signs. I know that many of these independent places don’t take credit cards. I have only $13 in my wallet. I don’t want to go in there and, in full earshot of everyone, ask:’Do you take Visa?’
- They are all watching me, wondering what I am doing.
- I re-progamme the GPS and drive 20 miles to a Red Lobster.
- Eat a proper meal of salad and grilled fish, with vegetables.
- Return to Ramada Inn, write article for BBC News website.
- Sleep contentedly.
Posted at 02:30 PM in US Road Trip | Permalink | Comments (4) | TrackBack (0)
Perth Writers Festival 2009
‘Ow! My bum hurts …’
Warning: don’t read this if you haven’t read:
Ubud 2008 and preferably Edinburgh 2008.
Saturday 21 February
I don’t eat all day – it helps me cope with all the delicious Singapore Airlines food.
I arrive at Heathrow at 8 pm, to check-in for my overnight flight to Singapore, en-route to Perth.
I tell her that I’m going to Perth, for the Writers’ Festival.
Ergo, I must be a writer.
Ergo, she must upgrade me.
… Oh, why do I even bother?
I get the exact same seat I had last time, on the Airbus A380.
We are delayed nearly two hours getting out of Heathrow. Not the fault of Singapore Airlines or Airbus – the gate refuses to let go of our aircraft and eventually has to be forcibly dragged away by a tow-truck.
Once we are underway, I impress everyone in my vicinity by taking out my Sony noise reduction headphones. I note with extreme disapproval that two further episodes of the decadent and immoral Californication are available to view. I am only able to watch the first one, before the system seizes up and won’t let me watch the second. I want to report this serious malfunction to the Captain, but the cockpit door is closed, locked and seems to be armour plated. I consider knocking, but decide not to bother.
Another problem with the Airbus: the paper towels in the toilets are so flimsy, they tear even as you pull them out. Don’t even think of wetting one so that you can wash your face – they completely disintegrate. The reason for this is obvious: even though there are signs clearly instructing passengers not to put paper towels down the toilet, some idiots always do. So the towels are designed for that situation – making them pretty useless for their primary purpose. Once again, our society and infrastructure are designed according to the lowest common denominator. Which begs the question: how do such people get the privilege of travelling between countries? Is it worth the environmental cost?
I watch the film W, which depicts George W Bush shoving a hamburger into his mouth whilst being introduced to a beautiful young woman (his future wife). I would be cynical about this, but I witnessed this same behaviour with my own eyes. He was shoving a bread roll into his mouth during the celebrated ‘Yo, Blair!’ incident, whilst discussing in an off-handed way with Tony Blair what to do about the latest Mid-East crisis – unaware that the camera and microphone (on the table) were still on. This also explains the choking pretzel incident – he literally shovels food into his mouth, without appreciating it. He should never go to Bali, where food is savoured for its texture, flavour and vitality.
I sleep, somewhat.
Sunday 22 February
I miss my evening connection in Singapore – they put me on another flight to Perth in four hours’ time and give me a voucher for dinner.
I spend a little time walking around, reading all the menus of the many restaurants, before settling for the Chilli Soft Shelled Crab. It’s delicious.
Take a shower in the lounge.
Sunday hardly happened.
Four hour flight to Perth.
I sleep, somewhat.
Monday 23 February
Because I missed my connection, Katherine Dorrington – Director of the Perth Writers’ Festival – is now picking me up at 7:30 am, instead of 2:30 am. (I was able to text her about the change of flight.) I must be pretty important, to be collected by the Festival Director, eh? (Alas, she couldn’t find anyone else to do this chore.)
Driving through the Monday morning rush hour (I love watching other people go to work), she takes me to the Duxton Hotel. Katherine gives me my welcome pack and leaves me to my own devices. My room is on the 8th floor and has a view over St George’s Terrace – a busy street leading to downtown.
Now, I’m a very savvy global traveller, so this is what I’m going to do. I’m going to stay awake, and walk all over Perth all day – thus I’ll tire myself out and easily fall asleep tonight at an appropriate time, and then wake up at a normal time on Tuesday morning. Jet lag is only for ordinary people who aren’t used to global travel, unlike me – in my transatlantic Corporate days, I was Platinum on Northwest, Platinum on American, Gold on Delta. (Don’t ask me about my status today – the grief just kills me.) I still have the prestigious tags on my attaché case, but please don’t look closely at the expiration dates.
I set off from the hotel, in my T-shirt, shorts and sandals.
Oh God, it’s so hot.
I walk a block.
Oh God, it’s so hot and humid.
I walk another block.
Oh God, it’s so hot and humid and I have no energy.
I retreat to the cool comfort of my hotel room. It’s just so hot outside – that’s why I’m here. I sit in the chair.
What shall I do? I think I’ll just lie down for a few minutes, to get my energy back.
I wake up at 7 pm.
Go for a walk, try out the Perth Eye (or whatever they call it here, it’s a smaller version of the London Eye). Have dinner across the street in the Balti restaurant.
Stay up late answering e-mails about my forthcoming US road trip.
Fall asleep at the keyboard and crawl into bed in the early hours.
Tuesday 24 February
Awake early and go for a walk by the Swan River – the cycle path looks interesting. I wonder where it goes. Many people cycle past me, on their way to work.
Breakfast at the hotel – the full buffet. When you are travelling in a situation which is not quite all expenses paid, then the hotel buffet breakfast is the bedrock of your energy requirements for the day.
I have a three course breakfast:
(1) scrambled eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms, potatoes;
(2) croissant and crumpets;
(3) fruit and nuts.
Washed down with mixed fruit juices and black decaff coffee.
Stagger out of the restaurant.
The cycle path intrigues me, so I decide to ask the Concierge about it. I wait patiently behind an American man who has his laptop open on the counter and is explaining earnestly to the Concierge, in deeply technical terms, that he has all this hardware/software on his computer which demonstrates that the hotel's wireless network isn't very efficient. The African-born Concierge listens intently and nods politely, but I have a feeling that, like me, he is waiting for this bad dream to end.
I have my own thoughts on this: 'Listen, buddy, if you're so unhappy about it, why don't you just invade the country, shock and awe the population, destroy all the existing infrastructure, get Halliburton to put in a new wireless network, and make the Australian people pay for it.'
When my turn comes, the Concierge shows me on a map how the cycle path runs along the Swan River away from downtown, crosses a bridge, brings you back south of the city – on the other side of the river – and then crosses another bridge to bring you back to our side. The hotel can rent me a bicycle and helmet.
I’m a committed environmentalist – I always make a point of cycling to the local shops at least a couple of times a year. Also, when my V6 luxury car is being serviced, I take the bus from and to the garage. But nothing has prepared me for this cycle path. It runs for about 30 km (20 miles). Ow! My bum hurts.
The path takes me away from the city and into areas of immense peace and tranquillity. All along the route, there are parks and clean public lavatories at frequent intervals. Beautiful houses. But hardly any people in sight.
Where’s that bridge? Have I missed it? How can you miss a huge bridge?
There’s a couple of retired-looking men sitting on a bench by the river, so I ask one of them. I am taken aback to be assaulted by a barrage of brutal friendliness.
Look, I was only asking a quick question about where we are on this map. There’s no need to be so friendly. I just can’t cope with this. No-one would be like this in London. Stop being so friendly!
Half-an-hour later, pummelled and broken by the friendliness attack, I stagger back to my bicycle and find the bridge.
Back at the hotel, I feel as if the bike ride has burnt my entire breakfast. My bum hurts. I lie down, drained, exhausted.
Sleep until early evening.
Catherine Burns arrives and calls me – she’s Executive and Creative Director of The Moth. I have been asked to do a storytelling event at The Moth show to be held in Perth this weekend, as part of the Arts Festival. We go for a walk by the river and I impress her by showing her the abundance of clean public toilets. Coming from New York, she is also impressed.
Dilip Ghosh calls me and picks me up in his car. He’s a friend from Hampton School – I haven’t seen him for years. His yellow Nissan sports car has huge speakers instead of a back seat. He takes me to an expensive restaurant. I should have mentioned him in my book – then he might buy me dinner. Oh, he does buy me dinner. Thanks mate!
Wednesday 25 February
Awake early.
Three course hotel breakfast.
Rania Ghandour of the Festival picks me up at the hotel and takes me to ABC Perth, for a radio interview with Rosemary Greenham. It’s the most relaxed interview I’ve ever done. We sit down in the studio and she just starts chatting with me. She’s a real pro.
http://www.abc.net.au/local/audio/2009/02/27/2503604.htm
With Rania Ghandour
Back at the hotel, I do an initial rehearsal of my Moth story with Catherine Burns and Sarah Austin Jenness. The target duration is around 10 minutes. My time is 32 minutes. Okay, a bit of editing to be done.
Afternoon nap.
Dinner with Catherine and Sarah in Balti.
Thursday 26 February
Awake early.
Three course hotel breakfast.
Go on that bike ride again, this time with Catherine Burns. Point out all the clean lavatories on the route.
Catherine Burns
Ow! My bum hurts.
At hotel, feel drained of energy. Run out to buy a bar of chocolate.
Another Moth rehearsal – down to 22 minutes.
Afternoon nap.
Mike Daisey, the host of our Moth show, arrives this evening, and we all have a meeting in the hotel’s hot tub. Or should that be lukewarm tub? Freezing, we warm up in the sauna, then dress and reconvene in Catherine’s room.
Mike Daisey has just returned from three weeks in Vanuatu, where he was studying the people, the volcanoes and the ‘cargo cult’.
Mike shows us the most amazing photos on his laptop – rocks the size of a Volkswagen Beetle being thrown out of the volcano. Apparently, if you are unfortunate enough to have one of these rocks land on you, you are vaporised by the heat of the rock, before its weight can crush you. This happened recently to a Japanese woman who ignored the warnings and went to have a closer look at the volcano.
The so-called ‘cargo cult’ are villagers who worship America and all things American, due to being given many prized gifts delivered in cargo containers.
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/asia-pacific/6370991.stm
Mike tells us of a more sinister undercurrent to this. He discovered that an American millionaire went to Vanuatu in recent times, to deliberately set himself up as a god. He even had coins made with his picture on. I don’t remember the asshole’s name, but Mike Daisey is going to exposé him.
Go to bed without having any dinner – that makes me feel good.
Friday 27 February
Awake early.
Three course hotel breakfast.
Meet in hotel lobby with other writers for our Rottnest island boat trip. Chat with Stella Rimington (former Head of MI5).
Mike Daisey and Sarah Austin Jenness
Anne Fogarty – a Patron of the Festival – is hosting us on her boat (or should I say ‘ocean liner’?).
I impress Stella Rimington with my diving skills, and doubtless she’ll put in a good word for me with her contacts at ‘Five’ and ‘Six’ (as we refer to them). (I need a new job.)
Stella Rimington and Imran Ahmad. I know! Reminds you of M and 007.
My hair looks a mess
We have lunch on Rottnest Island and a somewhat choppy return to the mainland.
'Everyone remember where we parked.'
Stella Rimington and Richard Mason worry about the world
All aboard!
Our hosts: Anne Fogarty and Becky Vidler
Reconvene in hotel lobby to be taken to the Perth Writers Festival opening address, at the University of Western Australia, given by Peter Singer.
Afterwards, attend the opening night party. Karen, a Festival volunteer, asks me if Stella Rimington is here. I say that I saw her earlier, but I haven’t seen her recently.
‘Oh wait. That woman over there, with the light hair and glasses – that’s her. Would you like to meet her?’
I take Karen over and introduce her. The woman’s distinct Australian accent tells me immediately that I have made a mistake. I feel like an idiot – I just spent all day with Stella Rimington! It takes a while to disengage, due to the unknown woman’s overwhelming friendliness.
Take last coach back to hotel.
Exhausted – today was the first day I didn’t sleep during the afternoon.
Saturday 28 February
Awake early.
Three course hotel breakfast.
Nadeem Aslam joins me at breakfast. I didn’t recognise him – his hair is much shorter than when he took my photo with Salman Rushdie at Edinburgh.
Moth rehearsal with Catherine in the hotel. 18 minutes – getting there!
Go to the Festival, attend a session and loiter around the grounds.
A beautiful woman in dark glasses comes up to me and says ‘Hello’.
‘Hello,’ I say, wondering if she’s a new fan, but thinking there’s something vaguely familiar about her.
‘It’s Janet,’ she says, helpfully.
What is wrong with me? How could I not recognise Janet De Neefe – Director of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival – who I met in Sydney and who invited me to Bali? I am so tired.
With Janet De Neefe -- how could I not recognise her? Idiot!
In the afternoon, meet The Moth team again and do a major rehearsal session in a large hall of the university.
Stella Rimington and I have something in common – the same Australian publisher, and publicists Mary-Jayne Harper and Kate Mayor. I’ll say that again – I have the same publicists as Stella Rimington! Mary-Jayne and Kate take Stella, Benjamin Gilmour (film-maker and writer who made a film about the lawless northwest frontier province of Pakistan) and me to dinner this evening.
Life is quite good.
Benjamin Gilmour, Stella Rimngton and Kate Mayor
With Mary-Jayne Harper
Afterwards, Ben makes us go to a Tikki bar (minus Stella). I have one elaborate fruit drink and then stagger back to the hotel, exhausted. I really miss my afternoon sleeps.
Sunday 1 March
Awake early.
Three course hotel breakfast.
Go to Festival. Attend a morning session, then at 12:30 it’s my first event: ‘Writing About Race’ with the delightful Alice Pung and acclaimed James McBride (who arrived on a plane from New York, just a few hours ago).
It goes really well, and we all have long signing queues. We writers at festivals are always comparing to see who has the longest. I will see James again this evening – he’s also doing The Moth.
'I'll just write my phone number in here as well.'
Go back to the hotel to shower and change, then return to the Festival for the really scary part (for me) – The Moth! The gorgeous Kate Mayor accompanies me, to hold my hand until it begins. I really appreciate this. (I’m not complaining or anything, but I can’t help noticing that James McBride’s assigned publicist is really, I mean really, breathtakingly beautiful.) (I can’t wait until I’m a really famous writer.)
The theatre is packed – about 500 people.
Mike Daisey is up first. He’s the host and a storyteller. He’s a real pro – it’s what he does.
Then he introduces me. I apprehensively walk up on stage. What hits you is the light and the darkness. The stage lights are dazzling, but the audience is in absolute darkness. You can barely make out the faces in the front row – beyond that it’s only the laughter and applause that tell you there’s anyone there (assuming that you get any laughter and applause). It’s just you and the mic, on the wooden stage.
It goes okay.
When mine is over, I feel such relief. I really enjoy the other stories. James McBride is last, and he’s a real pro too.
After it’s all over, there is such a sense of euphoria amongst us. Catherine Burns and Sarah Austin Jenness have done such a fantastic job of shaping this production.
http://www.perthfestival.com.au/files/events/09%2001585%20PIAF%20MOTH%201%20MARCH.pdf
We go back to the hotel in various vehicles, and then Kate spots Mary-Jayne with some others in the window of Balti. We join them and I eat the ample remains of their dinner – now that The Moth is done, I’m so hungry.
Monday 2 March
Awake early.
Three course hotel breakfast.
My final session, ‘A Boy’s Life’ with Roland Rocchiccioli. Now that The Moth is over, this seems somewhat routine. Good signing queues afterwards.
You can never have too many copies of Unimagined
Susan Wyndham (of the Sydney Morning Herald) is sitting next to me at the signing table. I have a bone to pick with her. I have read an article of hers, about literary festivals.
http://www.smh.com.au/news/Books/Writers-festivals-are-a-waste-of-time/2005/03/08/1110160827736.html
I quote her: ‘For the writers there are book sales, free travel, adulation and, occasionally, sex.’
I tell Susan that I’ve had the first three, but I’ve never been able to find the fourth. Was I supposed to register or something? She laughs and says, ‘I think it’s in your welcome pack.’
I go to James McBride’s packed session in the main theatre, and something amazing happens. He starts talking about my book! I can’t believe it! He says ‘… Imran’s book is so refreshing …’ He says such nice things about it.
Just a minute Mr McBride. Tell them my full name! Tell them the name of the book! Don’t just call it ‘Imran’s book’! They don’t know who Imran is.
He moves on to talk about something else.
You idiot McBride! You didn’t tell them the name of the book! What good is that?!
Afterwards I thank James McBride for mentioning my book, and he says to look him up when I’m in New York on my road trip. He also says that he will send his NYU students to my speaking event in New York. What a nice man.
I forgive you for just calling it 'Imran's book'
Attend closing session of Perth Writers Festival – Sebastian Barry in conversation.
Say thank you and goodbye to Katherine Dorrington.
Earlier picture with Katherine Dorrington -- my shirt says it's Sunday
Have dinner with Janet and a friend of hers, in Balti.
Introduce Janet to The Moth team and we have a drink in hotel bar.
Retire to room in bittersweet, melancholy mood.
Tuesday 3 March
Awake early.
No breakfast in hotel. Have to be prepared for delicious Singapore Airlines food.
Go on final bike ride along Swan River, and explore King’s Park. I barely scratched the surface of this place. I hope that I return to Perth one day.
Check out from wonderful Duxton Hotel. Janet has left me a signed copy of her book, Fragrant Rice.
Say goodbye to Catherine and Sarah.
Take mini-bus to airport with James Campbell and Andrew Nicoll.
Fly to Singapore.
Eat Chilli Soft Shelled Crab.
Shower in lounge.
Board Airbus A380 to London.
Am able to watch that next episode of Californication. I like this programme.
Read Janet's book, Fragant Rice. It brings tears to my eyes (re the Bali bombs).
Sleep, somewhat.
Wednesday 4 March
At Heathrow, the African-born immigration officer takes my passport, then proceeds to fiddle about tidying up the elastic band around his MP3 player, before returning my passport to me.
At the bus stop, two men are smoking in the bus shelter, even though there is a clear ‘No Smoking’ sign …
Public Speaking: www.unimagined.biz
Posted at 01:39 PM in Unimagined | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
A wild(er) day!
I was called by the BBC on my mobile phone at 2:30 pm
I sat in the lobby and watched Dev Patel (star of Slumdog Millionaire) walk in with his family. They have to keep an eye him, I suppose – keep the girls away.
The producer came down and took me, not to the studio as I expected, but to the Blue Peter garden, and a cameraman came out and set-up quickly. The background was a bush and it started to snow. The producer stayed off camera, holding the mic, and asked me a few questions, to which my answers had to be self-explanatory (ie the viewer would not hear the questions). I wondered if this was not for the main News, but for some local thing that no-one watches – hence the use of a bush in the Blue Peter garden as background. I was disappointed.
However, the producer liked my answers and, as the snow fell, he called someone on his mobile phone. There was talk of Newsnight, but apparently they already had some regular players lined up for that. However, he took me back inside, asked me to wait in the lobby again, and went away for a while. Eventually, he came back with another producer and they said they couldn’t promise anything, but would I mind waiting in the Green Room, and they would see what they could do.
In the Green Room I met a man from Lloyds who insures satellites and a woman who works as a dating consultant. Then the host of the Green Room – a delightful young lady determined to make her career in media and cheerfully working her way up with dignity – looked at her screen and said to me: ‘Looks like they’ve got you down for the News at 7:04’.
Live, it was going to be live in the studio! I watched the News start from the Green Room at 7:00 and they came to get me at 7:01
It was Tim Wilcox and Sophie Long, sitting in a large room with screens and automated cameras, but no people except myself and the gentleman who brought me in, standing to one side.
He sat me down next to beautiful Sophie at the appropriate moment.
They allowed me to speak at length and I was able to make the following points. This is more or less what I said, in response to Sophie’s questions.
‘Mr Wilders is an EU citizen and he has the right of freedom of movement around the European Union, as well as the right of freedom of speech, which we all have.
The Government’s move to ban his entry into this country has reinforced the perception that Muslims use bullying tactics and threats of violence to suppress free speech. This is completely the wrong message to send.
Muslims already have a terrible PR problem, and this has just made things worse.
The correct Muslim reaction should have been no reaction. Let him come, show his film and go about this business, without Muslims making a fuss. This response of banning him has merely reinforced all the negative stereotypes about Muslims being violent and unreasonable.
I have seen the film and it is truly awful. It’s completely unbalanced and it serves no positive purpose. Its intention is to provoke anger and hatred.
Let me explain to you with a simple analogy what Mr Wilders has done. I know that Judaism is a religion of peace and spirituality. That’s a fact. I know many Jewish people who are peaceful and spiritual. But if someone made a film showing what the Israeli army just did in Gaza, and played against it a soundtrack of some of the difficult verses from the Old Testament … instructing to ‘enter this township and slay every man, woman and child’ … that would be a hideous distortion of what Judaism is, it would be grossly unfair and utterly immoral, there would be an outcry … no-one would be stupid enough to do this … but that is exactly what Mr Wilders has done … but because it’s about Islam, he knows he can get away with it.
The correct response should be calm communication … respectful dialogue. I would like to sit down with Mr Wilders and have a respectful conversation with him.
I sent him a Dutch copy of my book a year ago, but he never replied.’
Apparently it was repeated at 10 pm
. My title on screen was ‘Imran Ahmed (sic) – British Muslims for Secular Democracy’.
Public Speaking: www.unimagined.biz
Posted at 11:54 PM in British Muslims for Secular Democracy, Current Affairs, Islam and the West (Islam vs the West?) | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
Prince Harry and the 'P' Word What’s in a name? I groan at the ‘outrage’ caused by the revelation that Prince Harry referred to a fellow soldier as a ‘Paki’. It’s the outrage I’m groaning at – not the event itself. When I was growing up, ‘Paki’ was always a term of abuse. It was always prefixed with ‘F---ing’ and often accompanied by an imperative to ‘go home!’ It’s true that it hurt and I didn’t like it. It made me angry. But things have moved on. Once I started work, I occasionally heard colleagues – who were definitely not racist – casually mention ‘Paki shops’ or ‘Paki food’. I was absolutely sure there was no malicious intent. Even President Bush mentioned something about the ‘Indians and the Pakis’ getting along, and he is definitely not a racist. I have a Pakistani-born relative who worked for him, in the White House. (Of course, we’re all related.) I think it’s just an abbreviation for ‘Pakistani’. Duh ... So, with this word, it’s all about the intent of the user (as well as the conditioning of the hearer). I’m sure that in the army they refer to each other by various terms which might, in a corporate boardroom or school classroom, be construed as offensive. But there is no intention to offend. Clearly, in this private video and context, Prince Harry had no intention to offend. That is absolutely obvious. (Although he shouldn't have called him 'little'). I’ve never heard an Australian complain about being called an ‘Aussie’. Would all so-called Asian, Pakistani and Islamic groups just find something else to get worked up about. Prince Harry risked his life in Afghanistan to free that country from medieval oppression. He is not a racist and certainly not a ‘thug’. Enough said. The only people who should be offended at being called ‘Paki’ are Indians.
Posted at 08:20 AM in Current Affairs | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
"They're not the same!"
Last week I was at a government-sponsored event called Prevent 08: Learning and Working Together to Prevent Violent Extremism. One of the sessions I attended was hosted by the Foreign Office and was about communicating Britain’s foreign policy.
As soon as we had a chance for questions, one person called out the following: “How can you condemn people in Iraq and Afghanistan for killing innocent civilians, when you are doing the same?”
The Foreign Office guys reiterated that this session was about the communication process, not an evaluation of foreign policy itself.
To my shame, I remained silent, but in my mind, a different scenario played out.
------------------------------------------------------------
“It’s not the same!”
There’s a stunned silence and all eyes in the room turn towards me, including the Foreign Office representatives.
I repeat, more calmly, “It’s not the same.”
With everyone listening, I continue.
“It’s true that British and American forces kill civilians sometimes, but it’s accidental or, at worst, careless. They don’t mean to kill civilians. They don’t want to kill civilians. It just happens sometimes. It’s war.
American forces kill British soldiers sometimes. It’s wrong, it’s incompetent, but it’s not intentional.
It’s true that American soldiers sometimes shoot innocent civilians in cars, because they are afraid that they might be suicide bombers. It’s horrible, it’s regrettable, but it’s not intentional. If they knew for sure that these people were innocent civilians, they would not intend to kill them.
It’s the terrorists themselves who have caused this. It’s their tactics which have made Western soldiers become twitchy in the trigger finger, because that next car approaching the road block just a little too fast might actually be a suicide bomber.
It’s true that a few American soldiers have gone on killing rampages against innocent civilians, typically after a surprise bombing, and this is outrageous. But these individuals are sought out and punished whenever this happens. Again, it’s the intolerable tension they are placed under which causes this savage behaviour. It is not the policy of any Western government to do this.
But when the terrorists/insurgents/murderers blow up a market, a mosque, a funeral, a wedding, a civic building, it is their intention to kill innocent people. They do it deliberately. They want to kill innocent people to cause as much pain and misery and grief and chaos as possible. That is their only logic.
Western forces just want this to stop. To bring peace, order and stability, so that they can leave. Maybe you can assert cynically that this is motivated only by a desire for a flow of oil, but so what? Any sensible country would seek to guard its own economic security. The oil is useless to the Iraqi people if no-one buys it. What’s wrong with wanting a peaceful, stable, prosperous Iraq which exports oil? It’s better than this sectarian hell.
And Afghanistan has no oil. What’s the selfish motivation there?
The kind of people who would manipulate children into conducting suicide bombings (possibly without their knowledge) are unspeakable savages. They deliberately cause the very tension which increases civilian casualties.
How dare you refer to what British forces do as the same?
They're not the same!“
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I’m sorry, but I didn’t want to make a scene, so I remained silent. But this played again and again in my head all weekend.
British soldiers are giving their lives in Afghanistan so that people (both men and women) in that country might have a chance at a semblance of a decent, civilised, unoppressed life. The benefit to the West is that Afghanistan, left to its own devices, is a safe haven for terrorists to plan attacks against civilians anywhere in the world. Either way, the moral case in Afghanistan is clear.
Anyone who says that what British forces do, and what the Tailban do, are the same is ignorant.
My deepest sympathies are with the families of those soldiers killed by the child with the wheelbarrow bomb last week, and my thoughts are with their comrades who have to face this kind of situation every single day and not know if it is their last.
Posted at 10:14 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
This is the press release I wrote for British Muslims for Secular Democracy regarding the Mumbai atrocity.
British Muslims for Secular Democracy completing and utterly condemns these despicable acts of terrorism and murder in Mumbai. We also condemn those who support such acts, those who fund them, and those who attempt to justify them.
Those evil individuals who planned and executed this outrage are attempting to sabotage the welcome progress made in India-Pakistan relations, and we must not allow them to succeed, or to drive a wedge between any communities or countries.
India is a fine example of a country progressing into the 21st century with a commitment to equal rights and democratic participation for all. Those who oppose such ideals would have us all live under medieval theocracy. We utterly reject such values and objectives.
Our deepest sympathies go to the people of Mumbai and others affected by this tragedy.
And below is my own expansion on this subject.
Partition of India and Pakistan should never have happened. It was a massive human catastrophe. Whoever thought this was a good idea was an idiot. Gandhi was definitely against it.
Photos: Margaret Bourke-White
Partition is based on the principle of tribalism, and under this primitive system, you as an individual are defined by your DNA, and not by your own ideals, aspirations, efforts, humanity and good intentions. Tribalism enslaves us under the standards of the lowest common denominator, and I reject it utterly. I choose my own beliefs (and I’m free to change them as I learn and evolve), I assign my loyalty and affection as I see fit, and I don’t give my support based on a shared ethnicity or (apparent) common religious affiliation. If you want to see what tribalism achieves, look to Iraq (and they’re all supposed to be ‘Muslim’).
Partition was a complete failure. There’s no such thing as ‘Pakistan’ as a unified entity.
Sure, there’s a geographic region known as 'Pakistan', with a nebulous border to the North West with Afghanistan, and a disputed border to the North East with India.
The people who live in this geography are know as ‘Pakistanis’ (apart from the millions of Afghans who have been coming since the Soviet era). But these people – who apparently had so much in common that a country was created just so that they could all live together – are torn by every kind of division imaginable: religion (Sunni, Shia), region, language, tribe, class, village, family, economic group etc. There are many layers to this of which the average Westerner is unaware. For example, those who moved from India to become part of this enterprise called ‘Pakistan’ are known as Muhajirs. Over the decades, there has been on-going tension and outbursts of violence between these Muhajirs and those who consider themselves to be indigenous. So much for the national unity of ‘Pakistanis’.
There’s a ‘government’ of Pakistan, which generally serves its own ends and seeks to keep itself in power for as long as possible. This entity fluctuates between military and civilian, but the end is the same: government of the people, by the government, for the government.
There’s a Pakistani army, which is sometimes also the government, but never is it entirely subservient to the government. It’s rather like having a tiger for a pet. You can be the owner of this pet, and give it commands, as long as the pet feels like it. India is critical for the Pakistani army’s sense of self-importance. Any government which seeks peace with India is a threat to the army.
There’s the notorious Inter-Services Intelligence agency (ISI), which is subservient to no-one (especially the government). How they long for the glorious days of the Soviet-era, when Pakistan took centre-stage in the war against the godless Communists; the CIA were its best friends; the Stinger missiles, F-15s and dollars flowed in abundance; and India was distrusted by the Americans (because of its leaning towards Russia). What wonderful days they were! The modern concept of jihad was developed and fuelled during this time. The ISI was trained and funded and strengthened during this holy war, and the godless Commies were driven out of Afghanistan. Success! … And then what? The trouble with an adrenalin-loving agency which is a law unto itself is that those within it will always seek to maintain their positions of covert power, of being above the ordinary people and their pathetic government.
The peace process with India – which is so longed for at grassroots level on both sides – is a threat to the existence of the army and the ISI. Without India as an enemy, why would Pakistan need a significant army and an ISI?
To his credit, the new civilian President of Pakistan, Asif Zardari (whose own wife was killed by terrorists), recently articulated that India poses no threat to Pakistan and promised that his country would not be the first to engage nuclear weapons in any conflict. The BBC reports that a Pakistani defence official objected to these remarks. The Pakistani government announced it would send the ISI chief to India to assist in the investigation, and then backtracked when the ISI objected. In the West, the intelligence agencies work for the government. In Pakistan, the ISI works for itself (and possibly the Americans or the Taliban, depending on the sub-group). It serves no purpose in the national interest.
India has moved on into the 21st century with a progressive, modern society ahead of it, but some forces within Pakistan are intent on keeping that country as a military-theocracy, defined only by a hatred of India. Hatred and tribalism are always powerful knee-jerk levers for getting populations under control.
The planning and support required for this operation should not be over-estimated – there’s no reason to think it was state-endorsed. Rather than 9/11, it was closer to Columbine High School – with a dozen or so gunmen able to use watches to tell the time and coordinate attacks. The ease and rapidity with which they killed people reflects on the easy-going nature of the society in which they struck, rather than on their own military skills. It wasn’t a fair fight at all, and no-one in an official position in India should feel responsible. (I wouldn’t want to live in a state where armed officers watch everyone’s every move, and check our papers at every street corner.)
It’s almost certain that ‘elements’ within Pakistan had some involvement in the Mumbai atrocities, but it would be wrong to attribute blame to the country as a whole – since there’s no such thing as Pakistan as a coherent entity. I would venture to say that the government – no matter how inept and self-serving – actually wants peace and complete normalisation of relations with India. But the government of Pakistan has no ability to control every element within its borders, especially the ISI. And the ISI has no ability to control elements even within itself.
So, an old pattern is played out. Those behind this terrorist action wanted to sabotage the peace process, which is a threat to their sense of power. They enlist frustrated, embittered, ignorant young men under the prestigious Al-Qaeda franchise, and sell them the tried-and-tested jihad package (“ … the non-believers are at war with Islam … Paradise awaits you … blah blah …”). India – ignoring the fact that Pakistan is not a unified entity – kicks the blame at ‘Pakistan’. Pakistan – ignoring that fact that elements from within its borders almost certainly had some involvement – is indignant at this accusation and kicks back. Everyone leaps immediately to a tribal position. The peace process stalls. Everyone suffers. The terrorist lemmings and their sick calculating orchestrators win. (Actually, the terrorist lemmings don’t really win – as they find out when they don’t wake up in Paradise.)
So what we all must do is not let the twisted scum win by abandoning the peace process. We all know that a peace process always brings saboteurs – that is a given. So we accept this reality and we continue on with peace and normalisation, no matter what these individuals do. Both sides must cooperate fully in tracking down the perpetrators, but we must keep our Egos out of the equation. (Unfortunately, these interchanges between India and Pakistan are always Ego-driven.)
Look at France and Germany. Were they not bitter and full of mutual hatred in 1945? How long did it take for them to normalise relations? How long before the tourists started coming? (“Don’t mention the war!”) How long before they became such good friends that they were eliminating all borders and barriers between them?
In my lifetime I expect to see the South Asian Union: no barbed wire borders; free trade; common currency; a uniform commitment to human rights and justice; no need for big armies, nuclear weapons or spying; no need to imprison poor fishermen whose boats drift into the wrong waters. France and Germany achieved this decades ago. Why is it taking India and Pakistan so long?
Ownership of Kashmir becomes irrelevant, if all are living under a South Asian Union.
Muslims need have nothing to fear from this. There are more Muslims in India than there are in Pakistan, and they are better off living in a secular democracy than in a medieval military theocracy, defined only by its fear of its neighbour.
A final word on the young terrorist who has been captured. He should be rigorously interrogated to extract as much information as possible, but there should be no violation of his human rights. He should only be tortured between 9 am and 5 pm on weekdays, with an hour for lunch (flexible). He should have the weekends off – left in solitary confinement to mull over his actions and motives. It will bring a whole new dimension to that Sunday afternoon feeling.
Posted at 10:21 PM | Permalink | Comments (1) | TrackBack (0)
Don’t demonise members of the BNP
Let me make one thing clear upfront. I believe that the BNP is a vile and despicable entity. It certainly has some members who are nasty, vicious racists. However, I do not believe that every person who is drawn to the BNP, because it strikes a chord in them, is necessarily vile and despicable. I believe that many of them are probably quite nice people, who want to feel proud of this country, its values, heritage and culture. But for various reasons, they feel that these are under threat.
The BNP is a legal political party, and as such people have the right to join it without harassment or fear of intimidation and violence. People also have the right to confidentiality in their political affiliation – unless they choose to disclose it willingly. Without such rights, a healthy democracy cannot function.
The disclosure of the membership list of the BNP was morally wrong, and those who have been 'outed' in this way have every right to be angry.
So, are we expected to be surprised that the BNP has so many 'ordinary' and respectable people as members? This is certainly the focus of the media outrage: vicar on the outside, racist within!
But the real issue here is much more fundamental. Instead of demonising the members of the BNP, we should be asking: what it is that causes so many ordinary, polite and respectable people to be drawn to such an unpleasant entity? Could it be that they have some perfectly reasonable concerns, which they feel aren’t being addressed by the main political parties?
And could it be that the fault lies in more than one place?
I’m proposing a combination of at least four broad root causes:
- Unreasonable demands and primitive attitudes by certain members of certain groups (for example, some individuals identified as ‘Muslims’).
- Runaway multiculturalism, crushing all concern and dissent with the label of ‘racism’.
- Irresponsible media reporting, creating the maximum sensation out of distortion, exaggeration and downright misrepresentation.
- Some people actually are inherently racist, of course.
Looking at the ‘Muslim issue’ specifically – which currently gives the BNP such huge mileage – it’s some Muslims themselves who are responsible for the problems, as well as our embedded social policy of allowing runaway multiculturalism to entertain some ridiculous demands, and the media for giving these matters disproportionate significance.
As a civilised society, it is perfectly reasonable that we treat all people with respect, and give safe refuge to those in danger in their countries of origin. But we don’t have to assume that all cultural and apparently religious beliefs and practices are equal – because they aren’t. And we don’t have to accommodate them all, full stop. Anything which seems primitive, repressive or just plain bizarre by objective standards of modern civilisation does not need to be tolerated, just because of multiculturalism and equal rights.
For example, it isn’t okay for some so-called Muslims to demand that their female children be allowed to wear tents in school, or for classroom assistants and NHS workers to insist that they can veil their faces. It isn’t necessary for councils to be obliged to print signs, instructions and leaflets in a multiplicity of foreign languages – otherwise where is the motivation for learning English? The vast majority of ‘ordinary’ Muslims cringe at such issues, and wonder why these individuals are so intent on rocking the boat in a society which is far more just and tolerant than in any so-called Islamic country. There are dark, sinister forces at work behind some of these people, and the trouble is that they get all of the attention.
We are dealing with hill-billies and (in some cases) savages who don't share our common values of tolerance and equal rights, but have no compunction in exploiting this commitment for their own miserable, mediaeval ends.
When government departments, councils, schools and other bodies are seen to be acceding to such demands, it’s no wonder that some indigenous, white British people feel that they are losing their country. I feel that way too, sometimes. If I wanted to live under the Taliban, I wouldn’t be living in Britain.
I have every sympathy for an indigenous person whose child is in a classroom where a significant proportion of the children don’t speak English. Naturally, I would be concerned about the impact this would have on my own child’s progress. I would certainly be upset if the council employed a classroom assistant who veiled her face (and demanded this as a right) and whose job was to translate for the non-English speaking children. I would wonder why these children aren’t being compelled to learn English as a matter of priority, by immersing them in an English-only environment. I would be angry to see a convicted drug dealer, out on parole, wearing an apparent suicide bomb belt to participate in a furious demonstration – showing complete disrespect for this country and the victims of 7/7 – protesting threateningly about cartoons which private individuals drew in another country altogether, completely independent of mine. I would wonder how those protestors came to be in this country – which they apparently hate so much – and why they think my country, my people, my government are to blame for those cartoons. I would wonder how entire areas have become segregated by ethnicity, effectively becoming ‘no-go’ areas for people from other groups. I would be outraged at stories I hear about Muslims forcing councils to ‘ban Christmas’. I would be angered by all these ridiculous demands and statements apparently made by newcomers, as conveyed by the media.
I would wonder how this strange state of affairs came about, and why it seems to be getting worse. I might be afraid to speak out, because of the social stigma of being labeled racist. I would look for like-minded people I could relate to – who shared my concerns, fears and values. I might find them in the BNP.
Looking at other causes: it is completely unacceptable for any individual living in this country to make provocative statements which jeopardise the safety of British forces serving overseas, to insult service personnel, or to provide any kind of support for those fighting against British forces. Speaking out against the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan is a democratic right; undermining our service personnel is not. Those Muslims who do this are a threat to national security, but so is anyone in the media who exaggerates and amplifies the extent of this. When indigenous people perceive this kind of outrage taking place, no wonder they get angry. No wonder they might be drawn to the BNP.
Acts of murderous terrorism in this country – both successful and thwarted – apparently perpetrated by people of a certain ethnicity or apparent religious persuasion, place an unbearable strain on anyone’s ability to be tolerant or keep a sense of perspective. It takes an incredibly spiritually advanced soul (of the standard of the Dalai Lama) not to feel tribal anger in such circumstances. We all do it.
The media does have considerable responsibility for this state of affairs, particularly with respect to the ‘Muslim issue’. Some newspapers have been incredibly reckless in creating a hysteria which makes me think of 1930s Germany. The stereotypes are reinforced – there is no concept of Muslims being ordinary and human.
Why is it that when that vile, raving lunatic Omar Bakri (who should never have been tolerated in this country) has something outrageous and provocative to say, he gets front page coverage, but an ‘ordinary’ Muslim like me, saying ‘ordinary’, possibly quite reasonable things, struggles to get any media outlet whatsoever? I’ve been trying to get a newspaper column, but no-one is interested.
It’s not just the newspapers. My narrative non-fiction book, Unimagined, about an ordinary Muslim boy growing up in London – who doesn’t become an Islamist or a terrorist – was rejected by all the major UK publishers for just that reason – my life wasn’t miserable enough, apparently. They didn’t think there was any profit to be made from it.
If you didn’t know any Muslims personally, and all that you heard about them came from the media, then it would hardly be surprising if you were a bit Islamophobic. Or, if you only knew one Muslim, and that particular one was a complete idiot – that would only confirm your negative perception.
And all that fuss in some newspapers about Muslims wanting to ‘ban Christmas’ can be found, by any serious objective examination, to have no foundation in reality whatsoever – but didn’t it make a great story? (I love Christmas, by the way.)
In these circumstances, who can blame some people, attracted to the BNP, for their negative perception of Muslims and their fear of the apparent Islamic conquest of Britain? As I said at the start: the real issue is why are so many ‘ordinary’ people being drawn to the BNP?
Dialogue, truth and understanding, not demonization, are the way forward. Leave the BNP members alone – they are just human, like the rest of us. We all have a lot of work to do to make this right.
Posted at 09:51 PM in Current Affairs | Permalink | Comments (3) | TrackBack (0)
Ubud Writers and Readers Festival 2008
Janet De Neefe from Australia fell in love with Bali twenty years ago and settled permanently, opening local restaurants. After the Bali bombings in 2002, she felt that the world had abandoned Bali and she was compelled to do something to put Bali back on the map. She created the annual Ubud Writers and Readers Festival from scratch, turning it into one of the world’s leading literary festivals. I met her in Sydney in May and gave her a copy of Unimagined. She kindly invited me to UWRF 2008.
I arrive at Heathrow at 8 pm to check-in for the overnight Singapore Airlines flight to Singapore, on my way to Bali.
When it’s my turn, I approach the distinguished middle-aged Sikh gentleman behind the counter (would have preferred one of the sexier younger women, but my technique should work, regardless), establish eye contact, smile, place passport gently on counter and engage most pleasant persona.
I tell him that I’m going to Bali, for the Writers’ Festival.
Ergo, I must be a writer.
Ergo, he must upgrade me.
(I don’t actually say those two derivative statements out loud, as they are obvious.)
He taps away for a while (it takes a few steps to upgrade someone), then tells me there is a problem with my ticket and I have to go outside to the ticket desk to get it re-issued.
This is my first time both on an Airbus A380 and on Singapore Airlines. I walk through Business Class on my way to Economy – at least I’m upstairs on this double-decker bus. The Business Class seats are so wide, it’s ridiculous. They would take two average Europeans, three average Indians, or one-and-a-half average Americans. (Before you protest, I said average, and besides, you know what I mean, and this supposed to be humour through exaggeration or irony.)
My neighbour is an Australian man who is extremely friendly, engaging and pleasant. He’s an environmental engineer with Siemens, and has just had a lovely holiday in Europe. Since he’s not a vivacious woman, my default persona has engaged automatically – the one where I just want to be left alone. But he does give me his prawn appetiser, so I can’t be too unfriendly. (I hope you enjoy my book, mate.)
The service and attitude in Singapore Airlines are amongst the best I have ever encountered and the food is excellent as well.
This is a long night in the quiet, darkened cabin, and for some reason I can’t sleep. I remember that my new agent at Curtis Brown lists ‘Californication’ as one of her favourite television programmes, so I watch three episodes of this decadent, immoral programme on the on-demand entertainment system. Now I feel a bit restless and randy. The lavatories are quite spacious and high tech. Oh, but they probably have detectors against all prohibited activities. Anyway, looking around, the only person I’ve established a ‘relationship’ with is the Australian man, and he’s sound asleep.
How can I be thinking like this? This programme ‘Californication’ is indeed corrupting and morally bankrupt. Unfortunately, only three episodes are available to view.
Pass though Singapore airport, check e-mail on free terminals, take aisle seat on two-hour flight to Bali. Another lovely dinner. This was a very short day.
Arrive Bali 9:30 pm. It’s hot!
I am met by a facilitator from the hotel, who takes me to my car and driver. For the first night only, my hotel is the Four Seasons Resort at Jimbaran Bay, which is a short drive away. After the most welcoming check-in process imaginable (sofa, wet towel, cool drink), I am taken to my private villa in a buggy and move in at around 11 pm.
There’s an envelope addressed to me, containing a handwritten card:
Dear Mr Ahmad,
Welcome to the Four Seasons!
Have a lovely stay.
Best regards, John.
John O’Sullivan – General Manager.
Looking around my villa, I find serious issues to bring to Mr O'Sullivan’s attention:
- No lifeguard on duty at the pool.
- The roof seems to be in need of urgent repair, as huge parts of it are open to the sky.
- Water and flower petals have been left in the bath – presumably by the previous resident. Why hasn’t this been cleaned up?
No lifeguard
Huge holes in roof
Water left in bath
However, a delightful ‘snack’ meal has been left for me (including smoked salmon and cream cheese bagels), and I eat this at the table under the stars. Cool off in the pool.
It’s the early hours when I decide to sleep outside on the private terrace, enjoying the warm breeze, the sound of the sea, the view of the moon and stars. ‘Underneath the mango tree’ keeps playing in my head. Wake up before sunrise and plunge into the pool (after visiting the bathroom).
Order a buggy to take me to the restaurant for a wonderful and colourful breakfast. Go for a walk around the resort, try snorkelling down at the beach, but the water is a bit rough and murky today, so snorkel in my own pool. The water is calm and crystal clear – much better.
After 13 hours in this extraordinary and perfect place, I have to check-out. I will be spending two days at a Writers’ Retreat in Candi Dasa, on the east coast of Bali, before the Festival begins.
At Reception at noon, by prior arrangement, I meet up with famous American writer John Berendt, who also stayed here last night. A car from the Alila Manggis hotel takes us there – about a 90 minute drive.
On the way, I impress John Berendt by asking him intelligent questions about his book, ‘Gardening After Midnight Is Evil’. (I haven’t actually read it, so I’m winging it a bit.)
After the Four Seasons, the Alila Manggis seems a somewhat ordinary resort hotel, but it’s very nice nonetheless. As we check-in, I give John Berendt a signed copy of my book.
I spend the afternoon by the pool, reading the Festival brochure and learning the bios of my fellow writers (especially the attractive ones).
Catriona Mitchell, the Festival Program Director, arrives and has tea with me by the pool. Sigh. I pull my stomach in as far as I can, but I don’t think it will be enough. I can’t breathe.
In the evening, the writers in this hotel gather and we have dinner in the open air, near the water, prepared by the hotel’s Executive Chef, Penny Williams. It’s quite a mixed bunch (all foreigners, except me): John Berendt (now living in a lovely New York townhouse, thanks to the movie of his book); Chiew-Siah Tei (whom I met at the Edinburgh Book Festival this summer); Faith Adiele (Thailand’s first black Buddhist nun); Muniam Alfaker (Iraqi poet who had to flee in 1979 after writing some less-than-complimentary stuff about Saddam Hussein’s government – I could have told him that wasn’t a good idea); Shalini Gidoomal (director of the Kwani Literature Festival in Kenya – ‘Red Alert, Red Alert, Literary Festival Director Detected, Literary Festival Director Detected, Maximise Charm, Maximise Charm’); Catriona Mitchell (how can I eat with my stomach pulled in so hard?).
Most of the other writers signed up for a half-day Balinese cooking class with Penny Williams, but that sounded too much like work to me. After breakfast, I find this elevated outdoor sitting room in the hotel grounds, overlooking the sea, and I spend most of the day here with my feet up and my head back on a cushion – listening to an audio book which Milton has sent me (transferred to my iPod): Swann in Love, by Marcel Proust. It’s the best book I’ve ever slept.
Catriona texts me that some of the writers are joining a Hindu procession later on, so that’s where I head in the afternoon. It is necessary to wear a sarong, apparently, so I choose the most dignified, masculine one that I can.
"Are you sure this is what they are all wearing?"
Shalini Gidoomal, Chiew-Siah Tei, Muniam Alfaker, Imran Ahmad (the easiest name of the lot)
We are driven to the nearby town by a hotel car, then set off on foot, our sarongs allowing us to blend in perfectly with the locals. The procession involves the climbing of a very steep hill, in the oppressive heat, to the temple at the top – where the many food offerings will be made. Roast suckling pig is definitely the most popular of these (with vegetables stuffed in the mouth, and rice in the rear end). There are literally thousands of people surging up the hill.
No-one can tell I'm not from around here
Don't give me that dirty look -- I don't even eat pork
The finish line! What's my time?
I am the only one of the writers to make it to the top, but later I promise the others that I will produce a photograph which shows that we all made it. On the way up, I step on my sarong, making a spectacle of myself as I try to shove it back into the sash-belt-thing. On the way down – hurrying to make the rendezvous – I slip on the sandy ground, momentarily suspended whilst leaning backwards, arms flailing. I grab and push against whatever I can reach to stop myself falling over backwards. This happens to be the backside of a young teenage boy. I let out a stream of ‘Sorry’s and hurry away from the scene.
Dinner this evening is at Candi Beach Cottages nearby, where we meet even more writers who have been participating in this Retreat: Jean Bennett (New Zealand children’s writer); Lijia Zhang (Chinese journalist whose writing career was delayed for ten years by her being forced to work in a factory making intercontinental ballistic missiles aimed at the West – we should detain her for questioning about the design); Zuleikha Abu-Risha (Arab poet and female rights activist – she must be kept busy); Tee O’Neill (Australian playwright extraordinaire). All foreigners – no-one else British.
I have signed-up for snorkelling this morning. Lijia Zhang and I are taken on a motorised canoe with a honeymooning Belgian couple (‘Nous sommes écrivains’ I tell them) to a nearby lagoon, where we swim for an hour. I have to work hard not to drown, but Lijia Zhang – being a trained Chinese agent, like the one in Tomorrow Never Dies – has no problem at all.
On the way back, our guide gives us each a bottle of water to drink. It’s hot and I’m dehydrated, so I drink the lot, and so does Lijia Zhang. This is a mistake. Looking carefully up and down the canoe, I can see no signs indicating the direction of the men’s room. The closest such facility whose location I know precisely is in my hotel room. Seldom has time passed so slowly. The sea conspires against us, throwing the boat back and forth, up and down, as it struggles to make land. Men from the hotel wade out and try to pull it onto the beach. Lijia Zhang and I both seem extremely anxious to get ashore. We jump out, yell ‘thank you’ and ‘good bye’ abruptly, and run for our respective rooms. My room key, which I had completely forgotten about, is still in the Velcro-sealed pocket of my swimming trunks. Thank God.
There’s an e-mail waiting for me from the Perth Writers Festival. They would like me to participate in Feb 2009. Hmm, let me think about this … well, okay …
At noon, we all meet in the lobby to check-out and be transported to Ubud for the Festival. Catriona has arranged for John Berendt, Lijia Zhang, Faith Adiele and me to be in the same car, as we four are in the same hotel. (Apparently, dozens of hotels have been arranged for this Festival.)
The drive to Ubud is about 90 minutes and we have plenty of time to talk. John Berendt has been reading my book and says some nice things about it. He gives me a great quote:
‘This [Unimagined] could have been really successful in the US if it had been launched properly.’
The journey takes us through the beautiful Balinese countryside, past many temples and markets, and the extraordinary Balinese people who seem to be so much at peace – always smiling and looking content. I reflect how wonderful, peaceful and spiritual this place is. It helps me to dissolve my Ego-self, to release my material attachments and selfish wants and preoccupation with social status, and to feel truly content in my Oneness with my fellow Humanity, with Nature, and with God. Tri Hita Karana, as they say (‘God, Humanity, Nature’).
Check-in at the Four Seasons Resort at Sayan is like checking into Heaven/Paradise. They seat us in a row at what looks like a bar, and for each of us a dedicated member of staff welcomes his guest with a wet towel and cool drink, before taking him/her through the check-in paperwork.
I hear the voices around me.
‘Mr Berendt, I’ll show you to your villa.’
This is surreal.
‘Ms Zhang, I’ll show you to your villa.’
The anticipation is delightful.
‘Mr Ahmad, I’ll show you to your room.’
Why don’t you just shoot me right here? How come I get a room and they get a villa? Who’s even read John Berendt’s book, ‘Delight in a Garden of Wood and Weevils' ? I haven’t. Lijia Zhang’s from communist China. They don’t approve of villas. She built missiles to destroy our decadent Western villas. Did Faith Adiele get a villa? She’s supposed to be a Buddhist monk, for Chrissakes. She doesn’t need a villa – they reject material attachment to worldly things. Why didn’t I get a villa? I’m an honest materialist. Why, oh why, do these awful things always happen to me?
I am taken to my ‘room’ in a buggy. It turns out to be a two-storey townhouse, with a private patio on the ground level, and a private terrace upstairs. The patio leads to the ground floor accommodation – which is the bedroom and massive bath-and-dressing room, and an open wooden staircase leads to the tasteful and serene living area upstairs (with guest bathroom), which also has its own entrance door leading directly into the main hotel complex.
My sullenness seems a bit shameful.
But I can’t help wondering what a villa would be like.
After unpacking and showering and changing, I put on my traditional ‘Happy Man’ t-shirt and wander into the Reception area, where John Berendt is having a drink. He graciously invites me to join him, buys me a drink and patiently answers my questions about his villa (bastard). He says he’s waiting to be interviewed by a journalist, who’s running a bit late. She arrives and I introduce myself, giving her my Unimagined business card and telling her about my book. John Berendt waits patiently.
Later the journalist, Miranti Hirschmann, calls me in my room and fixes up an interview with me for the next morning. Bingo!
SPECTRE's secret underground headquarters ... or the corridor outside my room ...?
At 8 pm we have the Writers and Media Cocktail Party, which conveniently for me is in my hotel. I go up to the main complex’s top level – the wooden deck surrounded by a tranquil pool. Writers and media people begin to assemble, chat and have drinks on the deck.
I spot Camilla Gibb in the crowd. She’s the author of Sweetness in the Belly, which I read a few weeks ago (it's an absolutely brilliant piece of literature), I’ve exchanged e-mail with her, and I think she’s one of the most talented (and attractive) writers in the programme. I start to edge towards Camilla. I’m not sure if she’s seen me. She seems to take a step backwards and inexplicably vanishes.
Dinner tonight is at the nearby Mansion hotel. We are taken there in cars and I am delighted to meet Elizabeth Henzell – Janet De Neefe’s PA. She tells me the story behind my invitation.
‘Janet came back from Sydney and handed me your book, saying, “Tell me what you think of this – I don’t have time to read it.” I started to read it and was laughing out loud. She asked “What’s that like?” and I replied “It’s wonderful” and she took it from me and I never saw it again.’
I stay quite late at the Mansion and decide to walk back to the Four Seasons – a distance of perhaps three hundred metres. Some of the famous Bali street dogs get wind of my presence (perhaps they’ve read my book) and line up along my route, barking ferociously in greeting. ‘Remember Tri Hita Karana,’ I keep saying to them.
I receive an e-mail in the morning:
Ambassador of Canada H.E. John T. Holmes, Mizan Publishing, and Ms. Camilla Gibb, the author of Sweetness in the Belly request the honor of your presence at the launch of the Indonesian version of the work, Lilly, published by Mizan.
Thursday, 16th October, 5.00 – 6.30 pm
Mizan sounds like the right Indonesian publisher for Unimagined. I’ll go along to Camilla’s launch and give them a copy.
Breakfast in the Four Seasons restaurant.
9 am interview with Miranti Hirschmann of Deutsche Welle – the tape recording takes place in the living room of my townhouse.
Relax in my townhouse, entertain a couple of fellow writers, and go for walk in the hot sun of the afternoon.
The hotel has an excellent gymnasium. It's very reassuring to know that it's here, in case I need it ....
Take car with John Berendt and two others to Ubud Palace, for the 4:30 pm Gala Opening.
The Governor of Bali strikes the gong, whilst Janet De Neefe and local dignatories applaud.
Photo: The Bali Times.
Watch amazing Balinese dance story. Sit with Sadanand Dhume (who introduced me to Janet De Neefe in Sydney – thanks mate!) and Chris Wood, Editor-in-Chief of the Asia Literary Review.
Chris says to me: ‘You know, the Director of the Byron Bay Writers Festival is here. I’m sure she’ll seek you out to invite you to her Festival. You should go – it’s really good.’
I get a chance to meet Janet De Neefe and thank her for inviting me. (Until now, she’s been at press conferences in Jakarta, promoting the Festival.)
An incredibly vivacious blonde North American woman starts chatting with me. She turns out to be Carol Bujeau – the wife of the Canadian ambassador to Indonesia. She introduces me to her husband, His Excellency Ambassador John T Holmes, and I thank him for the invitation to Camilla’s book launch.
After the grand ceremonies are over, a short, somewhat timid Indian man comes up to Chris and me as we step out of the Palace, and asks us what the next event is.
I reply: ‘Well, if you’re with the Festival, there’s dinner at Casa Luna.’
‘Are you with the Festival?’ he asks.
‘Yes, I’m Imran Ahmad, a [famous implied] writer, and Chris Wood here is the Editor-in-Chief of the Asia Literary Review. And what’s your name?’
‘Oh, I’m Vikram,’ he replies and wanders off.
Dinner is at Casa Luna, one of Janet’s delightful restaurants and the unofficial home base of the Festival guests and staff.
Casa Luna - I love this place
Carly Nugent (front), Catriona Mitchell, Tee O'Neill. (If only I was three-to-five years younger.)
Thursday 16 October
Breakfast in the Four Seasons restaurant.
The Festival opens this morning, with Janet giving the opening address in the Indus lounge.
Photos: Olin Monteiro
It’s followed by a panel discussion in which I am a participant – ‘Globalisation and the Collision of Cultures: When Britney Meets Bin Laden.’
Beautiful and vivacious journalist Katie Hamann is the moderator; she introduces us (and gives Unimagined a wonderful plug), and then she lets me speak first, as I have some opening remarks to make.
‘I’d like to begin my thanking some of our sponsors … KPMG … I used to work for them, they paid me a decent wage, so thank you for that … Casa Luna … thank you for a lovely dinner last night … Four Seasons Resorts … thank you for the room … I wouldn’t mind an upgrade … HSBC … the world’s local bank … please let me keep my house …'
'I have to confess, I had no idea what this session was about … I didn’t read the information properly … I thought I was on a panel with Britney and Bin Laden … ‘
After this, the audience is suitably warmed up and the session goes very well. No need to thank me, fellow panellists …
At lunchtime, I’m wandering between the venues, when Tee O’Neill grabs me and says, ‘You have to meet these people in the food court! They’re an Indonesian publisher called Mizan and they will love your book.’
Mizan? Mizan ... Mizan ...
The three Mizan people are extremely nice and don’t mind a bit that I give them a sales pitch over their lunch. I tell them that I was planning to give them a copy of my book at Camilla Gibbs’ launch party tonight. (I don’t have a copy right now – I have to go to an ATM and then buy one from the Festival bookshop.)
'It's a great book, I tell you.'
Photo: Andityas Praba
In the afternoon, I walk down to the exclusive Como Shambhala estate – the venue for Camilla’s book launch. It’s an extremely dignified affair, with excellent canapés and drinks.
Camilla Gibb's book launch
Photo: Andityas Praba
A lively woman comes up to me, asks me if I am Imran Ahmad, and introduces herself as Jeni Caffin. ‘I’m the Director of the Byron Bay Writers Festival.’
‘Yes, yes, YES! I’d be delighted.’ I must be her easiest acceptance ever.
The Canadian Ambassador, His Excellency John T Holmes, tells me he’s been reading Unimagined and absolutely loving it. Later, just when I’m wondering what to do for the rest of the evening, Johnny invites me back to his villa for dinner and gives me a ride there with his family and Camilla.
Breakfast in the Four Seasons restaurant.
I spend the day at various sessions. This is the magic ‘in between’ time of literary festivals, when you just relax and enjoy the sessions – after the joyful opening ceremonies and before the tearful farewells. There’s a sofa at the back of Indus lounge which is my favourite place to sit. The discussions are busy, engaging and stimulating, with excellent audience participation.
HSBC lounge - between sessions
'Hey, that's my sofa!'
Food for mind and body
This evening there are a number of separate dinners, hosted by notable residents of the Ubud area. I am amongst a small group invited to the home of Ronald Stones OBE. The architecture of his villa is so stunning and original, I’m not even going to try to describe it. Ronald Stones began his career as a primary school teacher in the North of England in the early seventies, but then took a series of educational positions around the world – culminating in being Principal of various international schools. He is currently building a school in Singapore from ground-up. If only he had stuck with his job in England, he could have had a nice terraced house in Lancaster now and be receiving the government heating allowance. Any regrets, Ron?
After dinner, it’s too early to retire, so I text Catriona to find out where the action is and receive the reply that it’s the Mexican Festival at Casa Luna. I tell the driver my destination.
'I heard her say that book is rubbish.'
Breakfast in the Four Seasons restaurant.
Today is my really important day. It’s my dedicated Unimagined session at the Three Monkeys restaurant. My book club hosts collect me by car from the Four Seasons. They are extremely kind and gracious about Unimagined. My facilitator is Kerry Pendergrast, whom I can only describe as a grown-up, responsible hippie.
The Three Monkeys is a delightful restaurant and the owner (and book club member), Denise Abe, is utterly charming. This is a ticketed event and it’s sold-out. Unfortunately, people are being turned away at the door (which I feel terrible about).
The event goes well, no-one asks me where the other two monkeys are, and we drift towards noon in conversation. There’s a chap from Mizan in the audience, shrewdly watching the proceedings.
Free cake always makes me smile
Photo: Nick Bale
An English woman comes up to me and says, ‘I think everyone in the UK should be required to read Unimagined.’
I reply, ‘I think it would allow us to have an informed discussion, instead of the hysterical ones we keep having – always defined by the extremes.’ (And everyone should buy their own copies, instead of sharing them.)
With Carol Bujeau - an amazingly charming person
In the evening it’s the Street Party and I have some entertaining to do. I meet my team in Casa Luna, then we head for the designated street.
Up-and-coming Australian playwright Carly Nugent excites my audience with an introduction, telling them three interesting facts about me:
- ‘He’s a qualified accountant.’
- ‘He’s in upper-middle-management.’
- ‘He drives a Honda.’
Carly Nugent warms up the crowd
Suitably impressed, the audience gives me a warm reception.
After the Street Party, the night is still young, so back at Casa Luna I apply the dancing instruction which is narrated in Unimagined. ‘Apparently, in the music there is a rhythm, and you just have to tune your body into this rhythm, and shake your arms and legs accordingly.’ I'm sure that all the ladies are suitably impressed. (I write books too.)
It’s so late when I emerge, there are no cars in the street, offering transport. The Casa Luna security guard offers me a lift to the Four Seasons on his motorbike, for a fee. One of those Bali street dogs must be a real athlete – I hear him barking on my heels for ages.
Breakfast in the Four Seasons restaurant.
Bittersweet mood, it’s the last day of the Ubud Writers and Readers Festival 2008.
I attend sessions, sitting mostly on my favourite sofa at the back of Indus lounge.
'I'm not budging from my sofa.'
Katie Harran interviews me in the media centre, making a tape for editing and regional broadcast.
'I said "off the record" '
With Sadanand Dhume
Photo: Jen Richardson
Back at the Four Seasons, I run into John Berendt in the gift shop.
- He lets me see his villa.
- He lets me take his photograph (just once).
- He gives me a signed copy of his book, Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.
I think there’s an implication that I am never to trouble him again. It’s a deal – like when am I ever going to see him again?
Patient and dignified John Berendt (smiling about his villa)
I tour his villa, and suddenly I realise the truth – I prefer my townhouse, with its indoor sitting area and its direct access to the main complex. The townhouse was much better for my personal needs and disposition. Why couldn’t I have known this sooner? Then I would have been so happy. Why, oh why …?
In the evening, I catch the end of a poetry session at Casa Luna, by a softly spoken Irishman called John O’Sullivan. That name seems familiar somehow (Irish names are not unusual, but I feel I heard this one very recently). He’s a charming man, and gives me a signed copy of his book, ‘Odd Poems and Slogans’.
I have dinner with some of the crowd, and then we head to the closing night party, in the grounds of the Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum.
Who's driving the car?
Kerry Pendergrast’s husband and I hug each other as the band plays Imagine. I’ve become a hippie too.
I awake very early – time is precious.
Breakfast in the Four Seasons restaurant.
I always sat here for breakfast
Packing.
Hotel car to Casa Luna.
Jean Bennett, Martin Jankowski ('Yan, not Jan'), Edwina Blush
Hilary Bonney, Sharon Bakar, Shelley Kenigsberg, Caroline Brothers
With Shelley Kenigsberg
Photo: Sharon Bakar
'Where are we off to now?'
Meet other writers and get transported to John Hardy’s Design Studio for final writers’ lunch. Standing outside at the long tables, I drink coconut milk and eat the delicious spring rolls and cassava chips dipped in exquisite sauces, until I’m quite full. Then someone says ‘Lunch is now served’ and we are directed inside an enormous bamboo structure in which the most sumptuous feast I have yet seen in Bali is laid out for us. I barely touch it.
Edwina Blush
The final lunch
Janet De Neefe is chatting about the planning process. “You know, I invited [famous writer] and I didn’t get a reply.”
Didn't get a reply? I don't believe it!
(NB: If you are a writer – it doesn’t matter how famous – and you get an invitation to Ubud, and you don’t even bother to reply, then you are an idiot. This has been the most wonderful experience of my writing career. This is a very special literary festival and it is a privilege to be invited.)
"I recommended 'The White Tiger' to [famous publisher] and he said he didn't really care for it - can you believe it?"
Say goodbye to wonderful writers and friends. Catch a ride back to Four Seasons.
I don’t want to leave Bali. I want to live here forever. Magic and synchronicity are in the air here – they’ve become a normal part of my daily life. If I never check out of the Four Seasons, then they would never ask me for payment, right? If I drop into Casa Luna every evening, then I would still be given food and drink for free, right? Sigh.
I'm going to wear this forever
Finish packing. Check out. The Four Seasons staff are so genuinely wonderful and friendly – they are not faking it.
Hotel car to airport. Four Seasons facilitator helps me through the entire airport process. Take two hour flight to Singapore and hurry aboard Airbus A380 to London.
Sleep.
In morning, read John O’Sullivan’s magic book, ‘Odd Poems and Slogans’.
Arrive 6:30 am at Heathrow. Take a bus home around 7:30 am, so it begins to fill with commuters. I don’t remember England being this cold. Why does everyone look so unhappy? Not smiling, like the Balinese.
At home, I check e-mail. There’s one from Mizan – the Indonesian publisher. They want to publish Unimagined in Indonesian. Well, at least something good came out of this arduous trip.
Back to work.
Posted at 11:17 PM in Unimagined | Permalink | Comments (9) | TrackBack (0)
UPDATE - 7th November 2011
It's been over three years since I wrote this piece, and nothing has changed.
I was with some international aid workers today, who had extensive recent experience of Darfur. They told me this is what happens.
Every day, thousands and thousands of women venture a long way out of the camps to fetch water and firewood. A small percentage of these women are raped each day. But that amounts to HUNDREDS of women EVERY day. It's become completely normal.
There's nothing more that I can say which wouldn't be a stream of vituperation and abuse against the Sudanese government and every other unconcerned so-called Islamic government in the region.
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The hypocrisy of so-called Islamic countries with respect to Darfur enrages me. Without a doubt, the government of Sudan is complicit in genocide – a genocide based on the apparent superiority of Arab Muslims over African Muslims. What is happening in Darfur is an abomination by any set of values – whether Islamic, Christian, Western, secular, humanist.
So-called Islamic governments assert that the International Criminal Court has no right to charge Sudanese President Omar Hassan al-Bashir with genocide, strongly implying that this is part of a Western campaign of hatred against Islam.
Yet the same ‘Islamophobic’ Western institutions went to great lengths to hunt down and now prosecute Radovan Karadzic, for the crime of genocide against … Muslims. Where are the cries from co-called Islamic governments about this Court’s lack of legitimacy to prosecute Karadzic?
And who in the Islamic world honours the memory of the two courageous CIA agents who lost their lives trying to hunt down Radovan Karadzic? Their bodies were never found. God only knows what was done to them. I appreciate what they did and may they rest in peace.
(Oh wait! That can’t be right! The evil West hates Islam and wants to destroy Muslims, doesn’t it?)
The reality is that much of the Islamic world is still entrenched in mindless tribalism, which is completely against the principles of Islam, but the hypocrisy of this is beyond their understanding.
If I had my way, Western forces would pour into Darfur with overwhelming firepower: helicopter gunships would incinerate those murderous Junjaweed (I’d feel sorry for the horses); armoured vehicles would surround the camps to protect the refugees and secure the supply of aid. Any Sudanese forces who tried to oppose this would be sent fleeing back to Khartoum. It seems so simple.
Fortunately, I am not a politician, I have no control over any military forces and this is not my higher-self speaking – it is my gut instinctively responding. (My higher-self knows that violence, as a response to violence, cannot bring peace.)
I truly believe – whatever one might think of him and his past foreign policy errors – that President Bush would like to fix this problem from a purely ethical perspective (nothing to do with oil security). But he can’t, because of Muslim tribalism and egotism. The presence of any more American (or any Western) boots on so-called Muslim soil anywhere is just going to generate further waves of violent, unthinking rage across the whole world, as the dark players use every such event for their own political and tribal ends. We have slipped into a mindless polarization and every action is viewed through such a lenses, which obscures the sacrifice of CIA agents in the pursuit of a mass murderer of Muslims. This just can’t fit into the picture.
So the pitiful refugees of Darfur continue to be starved, beaten, raped and killed at the whim of horse-riding savages and their well-dressed patrons in Khartoum, and we do nothing. This has been happening for years now.
But, there is something which could be done. It involves no weapons, no warships, no damaging sanctions which strangle a fragile economy and hurt the innocent.
Every year, the government of Saudi Arabia issues pilgrimage visas for Muslims from other countries to visit Mecca. These are allocated by a quota system for each country.
As long as the government of Sudan is complicit in this un-Islamic genocide and oppression of African Muslims, then no pilgrimage visas should be issued to Sudan. It’s simple, no-one gets hurt and it’s a matter of principle. The people of Sudan need to focus their efforts on ensuring that they have a morally upright government – one which honours the Islamic principles of racial equality, human rights and social justice. That’s far more important than any individual making the Hajj or Umra (lesser pilgrimage). Until that happens, no-one from Sudan should be permitted to make the Pilgrimage – they have far more urgent matters to deal with.
Let’s see how long Omar Hassan al-Bashir can stay in power, if his people aren’t allowed to secure their places in Paradise by making the Hajj.
Of course, this would require our friends the Saudis – the Guardians of the Holy Cities – to take a simple, Islamic moral stand, one which involves no deals for fighter planes or AWACs.
I won’t hold my breath.
Expected Saudi response:
“You do not understand. This is our religion. We cannot bring politics into it. We have to be neutral.”
Our rebuttal:
“Your Majesty/Highness/Excellency … this is not about politics. It’s about the murder of innocent Muslims. The people who are doing this have to be sent a message that this is unacceptable and un-Islamic. How can you sit back and do nothing?
.
Posted at 11:14 PM in Islam and the West (Islam vs the West?) | Permalink | Comments (0) | TrackBack (0)
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